REVIEW: The Ethereal: NYFW Knows How to Tell a Story
WRITTEN BY RILEY HUNT
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As Charli XCX knows, music, fashion, and film are the three main pillars of human expression through modern media. All three support each other. The best films you’ll ever watch, mostly because their emotional impact is nearly unbearable, have moving scores for each defining point and a costume department that understands the film inside and out. Music is a representative of culture and community spaces. Studio 54 wouldn’t be the 70s disco haven we know it to be without the funky music or the attire of bell bottoms and sequins. CBGB lived and breathed punk through defiant performances and an audience draped in leather and spikes. Fashion lived in these spaces and remains a curated representative for subcultures today.
This past week, I had the opportunity to attend New York Fashion Week to witness how fashion and music work together to create a cohesive story for an audience of fashion connoisseurs. Music during a fashion show has never been something I paid much attention to, but a well-chosen playlist seems to have such great potential for conveying the desired impact of the pieces to the audience. As shown throughout history, the two are a perfect match. But before the show, some of my fellow audience members confided in me that they haven’t had great experiences with fashion show playlists. This being my first NYFW show, I was excited to make the comparison for myself.
Luckily for me, the show I had targeted was The Ethereal, hosted in The Ace Hotel in NoMad. The audience, an expected mix of fashion professionals and influencers, was dressed to the nines, very on par with the avant-garde dress code. Every aspect was promising.
The first showcased designer was Urvi Selarka with her line of sculptural couture. Industrial meets elegant high fashion with each design. It told a story of a battle come to life, with an angel donned in silver and a rising darkened sun. Supporting music further pushed us into this fantasy with delicate clangs of metal and a climactic symphony. It intentionally swayed between a raw, electronic industrial style of a German nightclub and layers of ambitious orchestral melodies. Instead of debilitating the models of their movement, the structures moved with them and, therefore, the music. Entirely beautiful and persuasive, the audience fell under its spell.
A daydream of textile extravagance, created by designer KiKi Zuo as her FIT master's degree project, was next on the runway. The collection blended soft colors with bold composition. Pulling from the natural flow of water and a vision of how fabrics could be positioned, the collection drew me into a place of unabridged imagination. The accompanying music complemented that idea using a hazy compilation of electronic beats. It moved in cohesion with the pieces, allowing each one to represent its own unique and limitless story. After the collection was shown, KiKi Zuo shared that the inspiration stemmed from her dreams. A sentiment perfectly conveyed through her artistry.
With the drop of many jaws, designer Ella Titus’ collection was opened with a performance down the runway by ballerina Ella Titus. Yes, they have the same name, but no, they are not the same person. Such a captivating performance guided the awestruck audience into the enchanting collection. The pieces themselves were equally as timeless and romantic, honoring the classic fairy tales we all admire and adore. Imagine princess silhouettes with detailing of a true artist. Supporting music consisted of the classic fantasy staple, “Solas” by Jamie Duffy and an instrumental rendition of “Middle of the Night” by Elley Duhé. Both tracks embrace a cinematic essence, reminding the audience of their most beloved tale. For me, The Princess Bride came to mind.
After a brief intermission in which I snagged an extra dirty martini and hosted an impromptu photoshoot with some shockingly glamorous ladies, Alex Teih Couture’s collection flew into our graces like a phantom. Pure Victorian Gothic avant-garde, with feather headpieces and powdered faces, the pieces drew numerous compulsive roars of approval from the audience. The collection had clearly mastered dramatic silhouettes of a fair lady with crimson shades and cage-like bodices. The soundtrack to the madness only amplified the intricacies of each piece. House music meets haunting allure; we were introduced to “GLAMOUR” by LEONIDAS. The powerful essence of the collection was beautifully and wholeheartedly conveyed throughout the presentation of each piece.
Nearing midnight, designers Mary Witch and Yeha Leung brought the show to a grand finale. Leather, metal hardware and corsets enveloped the world of dark fantasy and sensual fashion. With such edge, they created a statement of what belongs on the runway: freedom and confidence. “We are Future” by Neo was the twin-flame techno anthem of the collection. It skillfully mirrored the intense yet liberating intention behind the designer’s craft. Showstopper, artist, showgirl, and more, DANIRO, modeled a piece designed by her and Yeha Leung. As the show's only curve model, DANIRO elevated the collection's significance to a whole new level. There’s no better way to close out a show than with a display of rebellious excellence.
The art of identity feeds on an audience’s response to beautiful exhibitions of creativity. Collaboration between the designers and the compliments of music performances remains an untapped opportunity to create something incredible. However, it’s safe to say that The Ethereal has done their job right. The response of the spectators alone proved the quality and substance of the show, one that allows an audience to properly connect. After the show, I checked back in with those around me. Two guests were running to Instagram to follow the designers and discussing their favorite pieces, while another was adding certain featured tracks to her work playlist. They were all hopelessly inspired.
Thank you to The Ethereal for having me, and congratulations to each of the designers. I truly feel like I hit the jackpot with my first NYFW show.